O que fazem as grandes varejistas da moda pela sustentabilidade? uma análise de ações relacionadas a efluentes, resíduos sólidos e agrotóxicos
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Arquivos
Data
2020-10-01
Autores
Eugênio, Núbia Neves [UNIFESP]
Orientadores
Duarte, Carla Grigoletto [UNIFESP]
Tipo
Trabalho de conclusão de curso de graduação
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Resumo
INTRODUÇÃO: As principais causas da degradação ambiental estão nos padrões de produção e
consumo atuais, sendo a indústria da moda a segunda maior indústria poluidora mundial. Este estudo
tem enfoque em impactos ambientais provenientes desta indústria. OBJETIVOS: Este trabalho visa
identificar e analisar os principais impactos ambientais relacionados a indústria de moda e ações
ambientais adotadas pelas maiores empresas inseridas no setor varejista de moda brasileiro.
MATERIAIS E MÉTODOS: Trata-se de análise bibliográfica de artigos científicos, dissertações e teses,
além de decretos e normativas de agências nacionais sobre tratamento dos resíduos e efluentes para
seleção dos impactos mais significativos ao setor, sendo selecionados materiais no período de 2000 a
2020, das bases científicas Pubmed®, ISI web of Science®, Scientific Electronic Library Online®.
Quanto a seleção das empresas, esta foi feita a partir das 10 maiores varejistas de moda no Brasil
indicadas no ranking 2019 IBEVAR-FIA e os relatórios de sustentabilidade foram analisados e
comparados a partir da seleção dos impactos ambientais significativos. RESULTADOS E
DISCUSSÃO: Os impactos selecionados para análise estão relacionados aos os dados alarmantes
deste setor como à geração de efluentes, visto que, para a produção de um quilograma de tecido, são
necessários o consumo de 150 litros de água em média, e o descarte de efluentes caracterizados pela
baixa biodegradabilidade e relativa toxicidade. Relacionados a geração de resíduos sólidos
potencialmente problemáticos, devido ao descarte de 170 mil toneladas/ano de sobras de tecidos e
outros insumos devido ao baixo reaproveitamento de recortes de tecidos, milhares de peças de
vestuário que acabam em aterros ou sendo incinerados, seja por consumo exacerbado, seja pela
produção excedente movimentada pelo mercado conhecido como fast fashion, que desenvolve roupas
com baixa durabilidade e que muitas vezes não possuem destinação correta. E a utilização de
agrotóxicos na produção de algodão, matéria-prima principal do setor que podem ter consequências
ambientais graves quando boas-práticas não são adotadas. Quanto a análise dos relatórios de
sustentabilidade, esta ocorreu apenas para quatro empresas que os apresentava em seus sites e um
comparativo com boas práticas foi traçado a partir de recomendações normativas e bibliográficas.
CONCLUSÃO: A indústria da moda promove ações voltadas para minimização de impactos ambientais
de sua operação, seja a mudança na seleção, minimização ou reutilização de produtos químicos,
efluentes e resíduos sólidos, e a busca de alternativas ao descarte e ao consumo. Infelizmente algumas
ainda não possuem o compromisso público de divulgação destas informações.
INTRODUCTION: The main causes of environmental degradation are in the current production and consumption patterns, with the fashion industry being the second largest polluting industry in the world. This study focuses on environmental impacts from this industry. OBJECTIVES: This work aims to identify and analyze the main environmental impacts related to the fashion industry and environmental actions adopted by the largest companies in the Brazilian fashion retail sector. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This is a bibliographic analysis of scientific articles, dissertations and theses, in addition to decrees and regulations of national agencies on the treatment of waste and effluents for the selection of the most significant impacts on the sector, with materials selected from 2000 to 2020. , from the Pubmed® scientific bases, ISI web of Science®, Scientific Electronic Library Online®. As for the selection of companies, this was made from the 10 largest fashion retailers in Brazil indicated in the 2019 IBEVAR-FIA ranking and the sustainability reports were analyzed and compared from the selection of significant environmental impacts. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The impacts selected for analysis are related to the alarming data of this sector as to the generation of effluents, since, for the production of one kilogram of fabric, the consumption of 150 liters of water on average is necessary, and the disposal effluents characterized by low biodegradability and relative toxicity. Related to the generation of potentially problematic solid waste, due to the disposal of 170 thousand tons / year of leftover fabrics and other inputs due to the low reuse of fabric cuttings, thousands of garments that end up in landfills or being incinerated, either by exacerbated consumption, or by surplus production moved by the market known as fast fashion, which develops clothes with low durability and that often do not have the correct destination. And the use of pesticides in the production of cotton, the main raw material in the sector that can have serious environmental consequences when good practices are not adopted. As for the analysis of sustainability reports, this occurred only for four companies that presented them on their websites and a comparison with good practices was drawn from normative and bibliographic recommendations. CONCLUSION: The fashion industry promotes actions aimed at minimizing the environmental impacts of its operation, be it the change in the selection, minimization or reuse of chemical products, effluents and solid waste, in addition to the search for alternatives to disposal and consumption. Unfortunately some do not have a public commitment to disseminate these informations..
INTRODUCTION: The main causes of environmental degradation are in the current production and consumption patterns, with the fashion industry being the second largest polluting industry in the world. This study focuses on environmental impacts from this industry. OBJECTIVES: This work aims to identify and analyze the main environmental impacts related to the fashion industry and environmental actions adopted by the largest companies in the Brazilian fashion retail sector. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This is a bibliographic analysis of scientific articles, dissertations and theses, in addition to decrees and regulations of national agencies on the treatment of waste and effluents for the selection of the most significant impacts on the sector, with materials selected from 2000 to 2020. , from the Pubmed® scientific bases, ISI web of Science®, Scientific Electronic Library Online®. As for the selection of companies, this was made from the 10 largest fashion retailers in Brazil indicated in the 2019 IBEVAR-FIA ranking and the sustainability reports were analyzed and compared from the selection of significant environmental impacts. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The impacts selected for analysis are related to the alarming data of this sector as to the generation of effluents, since, for the production of one kilogram of fabric, the consumption of 150 liters of water on average is necessary, and the disposal effluents characterized by low biodegradability and relative toxicity. Related to the generation of potentially problematic solid waste, due to the disposal of 170 thousand tons / year of leftover fabrics and other inputs due to the low reuse of fabric cuttings, thousands of garments that end up in landfills or being incinerated, either by exacerbated consumption, or by surplus production moved by the market known as fast fashion, which develops clothes with low durability and that often do not have the correct destination. And the use of pesticides in the production of cotton, the main raw material in the sector that can have serious environmental consequences when good practices are not adopted. As for the analysis of sustainability reports, this occurred only for four companies that presented them on their websites and a comparison with good practices was drawn from normative and bibliographic recommendations. CONCLUSION: The fashion industry promotes actions aimed at minimizing the environmental impacts of its operation, be it the change in the selection, minimization or reuse of chemical products, effluents and solid waste, in addition to the search for alternatives to disposal and consumption. Unfortunately some do not have a public commitment to disseminate these informations..