Desenvolvimento de uma formulação sólida para os cuidados com as mãos: aspectos físicoquímicos, sensoriais e biometrológicos
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Data
2023-11-27
Autores
Ladeira, Ariane Dalan da Silva [UNIFESP]
Orientadores
Leite-Silva, Vânia Rodrigues [UNIFESP]
Tipo
Dissertação de mestrado
Título da Revista
ISSN da Revista
Título de Volume
Resumo
Existem diversos cosméticos hidratantes para o cuidado das mãos e para minimizar
os possíveis efeitos adversos causados pelo uso excessivo de higienizantes como o
álcool. Sabe-se que há uma tendência mundial de preferência por produtos naturais e
sustentáveis, que sejam capazes de atender às necessidades atuais, sem trazer
comprometimento para as gerações futuras. Nesse sentido, este trabalho propõe o
uso de componentes hidratantes naturais como a Manteiga de Karité, ésteres e ceras
naturais para o desenvolvimento de uma formulação cosmética sólida para hidratação
das mãos visando sustentabilidade, do ponto de vista de otimização do uso de água
na fabricação e aumento da vida de prateleira do produto; já que oferece menor
chance de contaminação, além de praticidade, economia no serviço de transporte e
redução da poluição do ar. Foram testadas 26 formulações com diferentes
ingredientes (sílicas, ésteres, ceras) e concentrações, além de duas formulações de
mercado usadas como referência de formulação sólida para hidratação das mãos.
Dessas formulações preliminares, foram selecionadas 17 formulações que
apresentaram a melhor sinergia entre os componentes, ou seja, a combinação entre
melhor estabilidade visual e boa estruturação para o formato de bastão. A seguir, as
formulações foram submetidas ao teste de reologia de acordo com a curva de
temperatura de perfil linear realizada para cada amostra, que, com os melhores
resultados, pré-selecionou as formulações utilizadas para o teste in vivo de análise
sensorial descritiva com painel treinado contendo oito avaliadores. Duas formulações
com melhor desempenho nos testes físico-químicos e análise sensorial foram
submetidas aos testes de hidratação, perda de água transepidérmica (TEWL) e a
análise estatística foi realizada utilizando ANOVA. Ambas as formulações F9 e F16
foram consideradas adequadas de acordo com as propriedades físico-químicas,
sensoriais e de hidratação.
There are various moisturizing cosmetics for hand care and to minimize the possible adverse effects caused by excessive use of sanitizers such as alcohol. It is known that there is a worldwide trend towards natural and sustainable products that are able to meet current needs without compromising future generations. With this in mind, this work proposes the use of natural moisturizing components such as Shea Butter, esters and natural waxes to develop a solid cosmetic formulation for moisturizing hands, with a view to sustainability, from the point of view of optimizing the use of water in manufacturing and increasing the product's shelf life; since it offers less chance of contamination, as well as practicality, savings in transport services and a reduction in air pollution. A total of 26 formulations with different ingredients (silicas, esters, waxes) and concentrations were tested, as well as two market formulations used as a reference for solid hand moisturizing formulations. From these preliminary formula tions, 17 formulations were selected that presented the best synergy of components, i.e. a combination with the best visual stability and good structuring for the stick shape. Next, the formulations were subjected to the rheology test according to the line ar profile temperature curve made for each sample, which, with the best results, pre selected the formulations used for the in vivo descriptive sensory analysis test with a trained panel of 8 evaluators. The hardness test was also carried out using a textu re analyzer. Two formulations with the best performance in the physicochemic al tests and sensory analysis were subjected to hydration tests, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and statistical analysis was carried out using ANOVA. Both formulations F9 and F16 were considered suitable according to their physicochemical , sensory and hydration properties.
There are various moisturizing cosmetics for hand care and to minimize the possible adverse effects caused by excessive use of sanitizers such as alcohol. It is known that there is a worldwide trend towards natural and sustainable products that are able to meet current needs without compromising future generations. With this in mind, this work proposes the use of natural moisturizing components such as Shea Butter, esters and natural waxes to develop a solid cosmetic formulation for moisturizing hands, with a view to sustainability, from the point of view of optimizing the use of water in manufacturing and increasing the product's shelf life; since it offers less chance of contamination, as well as practicality, savings in transport services and a reduction in air pollution. A total of 26 formulations with different ingredients (silicas, esters, waxes) and concentrations were tested, as well as two market formulations used as a reference for solid hand moisturizing formulations. From these preliminary formula tions, 17 formulations were selected that presented the best synergy of components, i.e. a combination with the best visual stability and good structuring for the stick shape. Next, the formulations were subjected to the rheology test according to the line ar profile temperature curve made for each sample, which, with the best results, pre selected the formulations used for the in vivo descriptive sensory analysis test with a trained panel of 8 evaluators. The hardness test was also carried out using a textu re analyzer. Two formulations with the best performance in the physicochemic al tests and sensory analysis were subjected to hydration tests, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and statistical analysis was carried out using ANOVA. Both formulations F9 and F16 were considered suitable according to their physicochemical , sensory and hydration properties.