Avaliação das propriedades da fibra capilar e sensorial sob ação dos óleos de jojoba e de coco em formulação condicionadora
Data
2024-10-31
Tipo
Dissertação de mestrado
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Resumo
Os produtos de origem natural, como os óleos vegetais, têm ganhado relevância no mercado cosmético. O objetivo desse estudo foi avaliar os danos da descoloração e coloração em fibras capilares do tipo caucasiano e os benefícios dos óleos vegetais de jojoba e de coco; adicionados em formulação condicionadora, quando aplicados em mechas de cabelos virgens, descoloridos e coloridos. Para testes de penteabilidade, tração à ruptura e coeficiente de fricção utilizou-se o equipamento Dia-stron® MTT175. A avaliação de brilho foi conduzida no equipamento SAMBA® Hair System da Bossa Nova Technologies. As imagens de microscopia óptica foram obtidas através do microscópio de luz transmitida Olympus. A análise sensorial in vivo seguiu os métodos: descritivo por escala hedônica, discriminativo por ordenação e análise de diferença. Observou-se que a descoloração seguida de coloração aumentou a resistência à penteabilidade e o atrito, e reduziu o brilho e a hidrofobicidade. Com o uso dos condicionadores, a resistência à penteabilidade e o atrito diminuíram, exceto com o condicionador de óleo de jojoba. O brilho não foi influenciado pelos condicionadores, mas os que continham óleos vegetais aumentaram o ângulo de contato da água com as fibras capilares. A microscopia óptica mostrou que os condicionadores suavizaram as cutículas. No teste sensorial, os consumidores demonstraram preferência pelos condicionadores com óleos vegetais em comparação ao condicionador base. Assim, o uso de óleos vegetais mostrou potencial para melhorar as propriedades físico-químicas dos cabelos.
Natural products, such as vegetable oils, have gained relevance in the cosmetic market. The objective of this study was to evaluate the damage caused by bleaching and dyeing on Caucasian hair fibers and the benefits of jojoba and coconut vegetable oils when added to a conditioning formulation and applied to virgin, bleached, and dyed hair strands. For combing resistance, tensile strength, and friction coefficient tests, the Dia-stron® MTT175 equipment was used. The shine evaluation was conducted with the SAMBA® Hair System by Bossa Nova Technologies. Optical microscopy images were obtained using an Olympus transmitted light microscope. The in vivo sensory analysis followed the methods: descriptive with hedonic scale, discriminative by ranking, and difference analysis. It was observed that bleaching followed by dyeing increased combing resistance and friction, while reducing shine and hydrophobicity. With the use of conditioners, combing resistance and friction decreased, except with the jojoba oil conditioner. Shine was not influenced by the conditioners, but those containing vegetable oils increased the water contact angle with the hair fibers. Optical microscopy showed that the conditioners smoothed the cuticles. In the sensory test, consumers showed a preference for conditioners with vegetable oils compared to the base conditioner. Thus, the use of vegetable oils showed potential to improve the physicochemical properties of hair.
Natural products, such as vegetable oils, have gained relevance in the cosmetic market. The objective of this study was to evaluate the damage caused by bleaching and dyeing on Caucasian hair fibers and the benefits of jojoba and coconut vegetable oils when added to a conditioning formulation and applied to virgin, bleached, and dyed hair strands. For combing resistance, tensile strength, and friction coefficient tests, the Dia-stron® MTT175 equipment was used. The shine evaluation was conducted with the SAMBA® Hair System by Bossa Nova Technologies. Optical microscopy images were obtained using an Olympus transmitted light microscope. The in vivo sensory analysis followed the methods: descriptive with hedonic scale, discriminative by ranking, and difference analysis. It was observed that bleaching followed by dyeing increased combing resistance and friction, while reducing shine and hydrophobicity. With the use of conditioners, combing resistance and friction decreased, except with the jojoba oil conditioner. Shine was not influenced by the conditioners, but those containing vegetable oils increased the water contact angle with the hair fibers. Optical microscopy showed that the conditioners smoothed the cuticles. In the sensory test, consumers showed a preference for conditioners with vegetable oils compared to the base conditioner. Thus, the use of vegetable oils showed potential to improve the physicochemical properties of hair.
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Citação
ação dos óleos vegetais de jojoba e coco em formulação condicionadora em mechas de cabelo descoloridas e coloridas