Avaliação das características sensoriais e físico-químicas de emulsões formuladas com homopolímeros sustentáveis, como opção ao uso de emolientes tradicionais
Data
2024-04-19
Autores
Meneguello, Talita Ganem 
Orientadores
Silva, Vânia Rodrigues Leite e
Tipo
Dissertação de mestrado
Título da Revista
ISSN da Revista
Título de Volume
Resumo
Introdução: O tema aborda a ideia de verificar se as emulsões sustentáveis podem substituir os emolientes tradicionais, proporcionando benefícios ambientais e mantendo ou até mesmo melhorando a eficácia e a satisfação do usuário com emulsões formuladas com homopolímeros sustentáveis. Homopolímeros são polímeros feitos de um único tipo de monômero e, nesse contexto, são de origem vegetal sustentável, buscando soluções ecológicas para os cosméticos, isso se traduz no uso de tecnologias limpas, livres de substâncias químicas agressivas, que prejudicam o meio ambiente e a saúde humana, ao mesmo tempo que incorpora ações ecológicas e responsabilidade social. Objetivo: Avaliar as características físico-químicas, biofísicas, sensoriais e neurossensoriais de emulsões formuladas com homopolímeros que apresentam uma estrutura química homogênea, composta por unidades repetidas de um único tipo de monômero, de origem vegetal sustentável, como alternativa ao uso de emolientes tradicionais. Material e métodos: Para alcançar este objetivo, o trabalho foi dividido em cinco etapas: (1) preparo das formulações; (2) análise reológica utilizando um reômetro MCR 92; (3) análise sensorial, com método descritivo conduzido em triplicata por 14 avaliadores treinados, além da análise sensorial afetiva para compreender o perfil de preferência do consumidor com 105 participantes, que responderam a um questionário sobre suas preferências; (4) teste de hidratação e perda de água transepidérmica com 13 participantes, utilizando os aparelhos Corneometer CM 825 PC e Tewameter TM 300; e (5) análise neurossensorial, onde 105 participantes responderam a um questionário sobre seu perfil como consumidores, sendo orientados a sentar-se em frente a uma tela de computador para observar imagens enquanto seu movimento ocular era capturado por um aparelho de rastreamento ocular (Eye Tracking). Resultados: As análises realizadas demonstraram que as emulsões formuladas com homopolímeros sustentáveis apresentaram excelente desempenho em todas as etapas de avaliação. Na análise reológica, evidenciaram estabilidade viscoelástica consistente, indicando que são adequadas para aplicação em produtos cosméticos. Os testes sensoriais mostraram que as emulsões sustentáveis obtiveram resultados semelhantes nos atributos positivos e se destacaram ao alcançar médias superiores quando comparadas com emulsões sintéticas. Nos testes de hidratação, apresentaram desempenho superior na retenção de água transepidérmica, quando comparadas com as emulsões sintéticas o que assegura uma manutenção eficiente da hidratação cutânea. Finalmente, o rastreamento ocular apontou que as embalagens de produtos vegetais receberam atenção visual concentrada dos consumidores. Conclusão: Os resultados deste estudo sugerem que as emulsões formuladas com homopolímeros sustentáveis demonstraram propriedades hidratantes satisfatórias, características sensoriais bem avaliadas pelos participantes e uma aceitação positiva pelo público. Além disso, a análise neurossensorial por rastreamento ocular revelou padrões positivos na observação dos consumidores. Esses achados indicam que o uso de emolientes tradicionais pode ser substituído por alternativas mais sustentáveis, alinhando-se com preocupações ambientais e de saúde. Assim, o desenvolvimento de cosméticos sustentáveis pode ser uma abordagem promissora para o setor, integrando inovação tecnológica e responsabilidade social.
Introduction: This study explores the potential of sustainable emulsions to replace traditional emollients, offering environmental benefits while maintaining or even enhancing the efficacy and user satisfaction of emulsions formulated with sustainable homopolymers. Homopolymers are polymers made from a single type of monomer and, in this context, are of sustainable plant origin, seeking eco-friendly solutions for cosmetics. This involves using clean technologies free from harsh chemicals that harm the environment and human health, while also incorporating ecological actions and social responsibility. Objective: To evaluate the physicochemical, biophysical, sensory, and neurosensory characteristics of emulsions formulated with homopolymers that have a homogeneous chemical structure, composed of repeated units of a single type of monomer, of sustainable plant origin, as an alternative to traditional emollients. Materials and Methods: To achieve this objective, the study was divided into five stages: (1) preparation of the formulations; (2) rheological analysis using an MCR 92 rheometer; (3) sensory analysis, with a descriptive method conducted in triplicate by 14 trained evaluators, in addition to affective sensory analysis to understand consumer preference profiles with 105 participants, who answered a questionnaire about their preferences; (4) hydration and transepidermal water loss testing with 13 participants, using the Corneometer CM 825 PC and Tewameter TM 300 devices; and (5) neurosensory analysis, where 105 participants answered a questionnaire about their consumer profile, being instructed to sit in front of a computer screen to observe images while their eye movement was captured by an eye-tracking device. Results: The analyses showed that emulsions formulated with sustainable homopolymers performed excellently in all evaluation stages. In the rheological analysis, they exhibited consistent viscoelastic stability, indicating suitability for application in cosmetic products. Sensory tests showed that sustainable emulsions achieved similar results in positive attributes and stood out by achieving higher averages compared to synthetic emulsions. In hydration tests, they performed better in transepidermal water retention compared to synthetic emulsions, ensuring efficient skin hydration maintenance. Finally, eye-tracking revealed that the packaging of plant-based products received concentrated visual attention from consumers. Conclusion: The results of this study suggest that emulsions formulated with sustainable homopolymers demonstrated satisfactory moisturizing properties, well-evaluated sensory characteristics by participants, and positive public acceptance. Additionally, the neurosensory analysis through eye-tracking revealed positive consumer observation patterns. These findings indicate that traditional emollients can be replaced with more sustainable alternatives, aligning with environmental and health concerns. Therefore, the development of sustainable cosmetics can be a promising approach for the sector, integrating technological innovation and social responsibility.
Introduction: This study explores the potential of sustainable emulsions to replace traditional emollients, offering environmental benefits while maintaining or even enhancing the efficacy and user satisfaction of emulsions formulated with sustainable homopolymers. Homopolymers are polymers made from a single type of monomer and, in this context, are of sustainable plant origin, seeking eco-friendly solutions for cosmetics. This involves using clean technologies free from harsh chemicals that harm the environment and human health, while also incorporating ecological actions and social responsibility. Objective: To evaluate the physicochemical, biophysical, sensory, and neurosensory characteristics of emulsions formulated with homopolymers that have a homogeneous chemical structure, composed of repeated units of a single type of monomer, of sustainable plant origin, as an alternative to traditional emollients. Materials and Methods: To achieve this objective, the study was divided into five stages: (1) preparation of the formulations; (2) rheological analysis using an MCR 92 rheometer; (3) sensory analysis, with a descriptive method conducted in triplicate by 14 trained evaluators, in addition to affective sensory analysis to understand consumer preference profiles with 105 participants, who answered a questionnaire about their preferences; (4) hydration and transepidermal water loss testing with 13 participants, using the Corneometer CM 825 PC and Tewameter TM 300 devices; and (5) neurosensory analysis, where 105 participants answered a questionnaire about their consumer profile, being instructed to sit in front of a computer screen to observe images while their eye movement was captured by an eye-tracking device. Results: The analyses showed that emulsions formulated with sustainable homopolymers performed excellently in all evaluation stages. In the rheological analysis, they exhibited consistent viscoelastic stability, indicating suitability for application in cosmetic products. Sensory tests showed that sustainable emulsions achieved similar results in positive attributes and stood out by achieving higher averages compared to synthetic emulsions. In hydration tests, they performed better in transepidermal water retention compared to synthetic emulsions, ensuring efficient skin hydration maintenance. Finally, eye-tracking revealed that the packaging of plant-based products received concentrated visual attention from consumers. Conclusion: The results of this study suggest that emulsions formulated with sustainable homopolymers demonstrated satisfactory moisturizing properties, well-evaluated sensory characteristics by participants, and positive public acceptance. Additionally, the neurosensory analysis through eye-tracking revealed positive consumer observation patterns. These findings indicate that traditional emollients can be replaced with more sustainable alternatives, aligning with environmental and health concerns. Therefore, the development of sustainable cosmetics can be a promising approach for the sector, integrating technological innovation and social responsibility.
Descrição
Citação
MENEGUELLO, Talita Ganem. Avaliação das características sensoriais e físico-químicas de emulsões formuladas com homopolímeros sustentáveis, como opção ao uso de emolientes tradicionais. 20244. 169 f. Dissertação (Mestrado em Medicina Translacional) - Escola Paulista de Medicina, Universidade Federal de São Paulo (UNIFESP). São Paulo, 2024.